Day 2 (26 miles) The Guide Book Lies!!

the famous Drovers Bear

Well as we sit in the eccentric bar of the Drovers Inn with our sore feet we can't quite believe that after 26 miles we have made it here!

crossed lots of these 

To say it was a difficult day is an understatement, we have been scrambling over rocks, climbing what look like mountains (well I am from Suffolk), and seem to have done (via our GPS) 6 miles more than we thought! When we tell all in the pub what we have done, they stare in awe at us, well I think it's that but they also back away as if we are slightly mad, that could be due to the new gait, we have adopted, because of our dodgy hips, burning feet and aching backs.

Rowardennen

Loch Lomond

We have walked up the whole east side of Loch Lomond, the weather has been kind to us though and we have had amazing views of the loch and seen waterfalls. We always knew that this day was going to be a challenge as the guide book does say the path is difficult but there were times when if a friendly boat had come by he could of named his price to take us the last 7 miles after our late lunch stop at Inversnaid.
As hard as we have found it, we came across 3 cyclists! They were all loaded up with panniers etc. but had just stopped as one of them had fallen, how on earth they got those bikes over rocky tracks barely wide enough, that you had to go sideways, I will never know?

Day 6 - To the Finish

I am writing this a day late as yesterday was such a full on day and the only time I thought  I would have time to write, on the train home, was not conducive to it, due to a drunken rave going on in our carriage.

I woke early on Friday, keen for our last day on 'The Way'. We had a top breakfast at our last B&B stop with an enormous Scottish breakfast and a bread basket that could feed 6 people, with a steep climb out of Kinlochleven though I had to restrain myself or else I'd have to be pushed uphill and no one seemed to be offering to do that.

The first part was really steep and it warmed us up for the rest of the day, reflecting back on the week we have mainly completed the walk in T-shirts and have only had one wet day and a few odd showers when we have needed to put our coats on, which is pretty good for a country famous for having unpredictable weather.

looking back on Kinlochleven

The view of the Loch and the village was a good reward though, before we headed across more moorland.  Open moorland, poses challenges for the walker as to where to have a comfort stop though, and with today being the one of busiest on the route, careful planning was required.  By now we are getting to know quite a few of our fellow walkers, as since Bridge of Orchy we are all staying at the same place (hotels have a monopoly out here) and walking the same route, so it is a case of having to make a quick dash for it and run on ahead before the next group catch you up!

This section of the walk is 16 miles and there is nowhere en route for a break, so it was a nice surprise to see one of the forest rangers had set up a tea stop just near the halfway point of the walk, so suitably refreshed we started the last climb before the descent down to Glen Nevis.

The end is in sight

We made good time here as the track was fairly easy, and finally we could see Fort William.  The only problem with seeing a town in the distance is that it seems to move and never get nearer, also as we came closer the track seemed to veer off west and head up over another hill, in what we thought was away from the town but finally after 6 and half hours we made it to the finish. The town council have cleverly moved the official end from the near side of town, next to the station, to the far end, so one has to walk all the way along the high street to the official end.  It was now raining heavily so after a couple of photos we quickly dived into the pub next door for a well deserved drink.

No rest for us though as we had to eat a quick lunch and head back to the station to collect the suitcase.  We still had  over an  hour before the train left so loitered around in Morrisons, having tea and trying to freshen up with what clothes we had left.

Then it was the train back to Glasgow, I guess when you see people on the platform with crates of beer, wine and spirits at 5.30pm you should be warned that the trip was not going to be quiet.  It was a bit of a nightmare and a journey that we were looking forward to, with stunning scenery and views of the WHW was marred by drunk and disorderlies. We tried to get the porter to do something but it was only as we were about to leave the train that they finally called the transport police.  My sister remarked that she wished she had walked back too, but with her blisters that was never going to happen.

Day 5 - Kingshouse to Kinlochleven - Recovery Day

We are lounging around in our B&B room at 9pm ready for bed so we can have an early start for our last day.  It's about 15 miles with another big climb up to Glen Nevis, so we took advantage of the ' 2 meals for a tenner, before 6pm' deal at the pub and ate early so we could retire in good time.

Buachaille etive mor

We have only done 4 hours walking today and covered 10 miles but it did include a hefty climb up the notorious Devil's Staircase.  With my dodgy knee though the climb down seemed harder and  it was a relief that the local Co - Op in Kinlochleven stocked Voltarol Gel. Our destination is a 'model village' built for workers at the local aluminium factory, but now this has closed, tourism is the main industry and lucky for us we seemed to have bagged the best guest house in town. It's like 5 star luxury and it is just what the doctor ordered after 80 odd miles of walking.

climbing up with Buachaille Etive Mor in distance 

Devils staircase (doesn't look steep here!)

Going down 

Kinlochleven

Today has been sunny and the views of the area (Glencoe) were amazing. We arrived at 1pm in Kinlochleven so have been sunning ourselves on the balcony overlooking the river and generally chilling before our last day. I can actually walk normally this evening for the first time since day 1.

Tomorrow we have to be in Fort William for 3pm which means we have a time that we need to stick to, hence the need for an early start. So breakfast is ordered and alarm set for 6.45, goodnight!

Day 4 - Rain, midges BUT an early finish!!

My sister tells me that you either have midges, minute insects that hover and crawl on exposed areas i.e. face and hands, or rain in Scotland, well that is wrong we had both at the same time today!

 the view on our way home via train

We left our hotel in Bridge of Orchy after our best breakfast (poached eggs, smoked salmon and croissants) but the rain was coming down and it was a bit of a grim route march over Rannoch Moor, an area of natural beauty (on a good day) but we just had to get our heads down and plough on.  But when rain and insects are all over your face it was not easy (guess it took our minds off the dodgy knee and foot).

Rannoch Moor

 A rainbow in the valley

We were rewarded with an amazing view of Glencoe as we came down and what looked like a rainbow on the hills with all the colours layered up, I tried to capture this in a photo but I don't think it will do it justice.  The hotel (Kingshouse) where we were heading came into view which spurred us on, but the only problem with this is that once you see it you think you are near, not so, it was like a mirage but after 12.5 miles we were rewarded, with a friendly welcome.




It's amazing how your priorities change on this walk, we don't care for contemporary 'White Company esque' decor now, all we want is someone to carry our bag up to the room, a good sized space to empty our bag on - to air and dry out, a large heated towel rail and cheap alcohol. This place ticks the boxes with a drying room for the wet weather gear too, and a really good ambience in the bar. Dinner was good with salmon for me (swapped the new potatoes for homemade chips!!) and haggis, neeps and tatties for my sister.

Arriving at Kingshouse

good weather

The best bit about today though has been the camaraderie among 'us Wayers' and it is that which spurs us on for the last challenge as we get onto the real high ground.

Skies are Amazing

Day 3 The Way is Easy but the Body Does Not Agree

Slept well last night at the Drovers Inn and after a top breakfast we set off for what was described as an easier day (good!). Weather has been warm and with only a couple of rain showers what an earth can we complain about??

By the railway

Well the body has rebelled, after what we put it through yesterday, and has taken it in turns between the dodgy knee, burning toes, aching shoulder and throbbing calves. Lunch was spent with our boots off slapping on Compeed plasters like we have shares in the company, moaning and groaning like a couple of old women.

We have walked alongside the river and waterfalls, with the railway on the other side, annoyingly even with these landmarks we made a wrong turn so did an extra half mile. My sister's feet were killing her after lunch so she quickened the pace with me dropping behind but we met a few people today, so have been busy chatting to make the miles go quicker.

At about 5pm after 21 miles we arrived at Bridge of Orchy where we are staying in a hotel, with a bath!!! This was most welcome, and the food has been the best so far. I just need a really good night's sleep now. 

we did share it!

1st Day - Milngavie to Balmaha

A sunny day greeted us for our first day on the WHW, we arrived in Milngavie at 08.30 and left our bag with the baggage transfer service, got a WHW passport (which gets stamped en route), tried to find a toilet, only Costa was open, and then we were ready for the off!

The walk in the morning went well, we made good time and were at Gartness (10 miles) by 12.00 then we seemed to hit a wall and, blaming a 'fault' in the map, it seemed to take ages to walk the 2 further miles to Drymen where we had decided to stop for lunch. Eventually made it there and picked a grassy hillock to eat our egg rolls but we seemed to have 4 seasons in our lunch break and it was cut short by a shower. After lunch and more walking through Queen Elizabeth Forest it was the climb up towards our first big hill, Conic Hill, which looked daunting after 18 miles and a brush with a herd of highland Cattle.

My plan was to have a toilet break before the exposed side of a mountain, so with my sister as a look out, 'don't worry can't see anyone for miles!' I settled down to Natures Call, halfway through she shouts at me, but too late for the party of mountain bikers that passed me, I did manage a wave, despite the position and loo roll in my hand!!
After a long trek up hill we made it and although it was wild at the top we reached the summit and it was with relief that we then descended to our destination the village of Balmaha.

We are staying at the Oak Tree Inn, have had wine and and a good dinner(despite being hungry though are too tired to eat all our dinner)   Think we will sleep well!

On my way

I have flown to Scotland today, all went well arrived 20 minutes early to rain lashing down on the aircraft!! But in typical Scottish style, I had to put my sunglasses on outside the terminal, while waiting for my sister to pick me up. Have spent a lazy day doing what I do best i.e. pottering, drinking tea, drinking wine and eating, but probably well deserved after 3 busy night shifts and a 100 mile trek ahead. 
I will list now what I have packed in case (to go by courier between overnight stops) and day sac (to carry with me) and at the end of the trip will see what was really useful and what will be left at home in future (if this happens again??) treks.

Wearing
Walking socks and boots
Quick dry walking trousers
T shirt
Light micro fleece 
Anorak (gloves in pocket)

Day Sac
Money, bank card, phone, 2x phone chargers (want to use the GPS & this drains the battery so have back up power)
Map and WHW guidebook
Bladder Pac (to keep water in although it tastes a bit plasticky)
Waterproof trousers 
Hat with midge net & midge spray
Buff (neck thingy)
Waterproof cover for day sac
Small first aid kit (plasters, paracetamol, tissues, wet wipes)
Torch & pen
Micro towel
Pen knife (not sure what we need this for but it seems to have lots of attachments)
Sweets, flapjack bars, sandwiches
Compass and Kite (thanks Helen! To fly on the mountains)

Case - to be carried by courier (I am using Ginger Routes - £40 for the route)
2 pairs walking trousers
2 T shirts
Fleece top
Jeans, top and shoes for the evenings
Underwear and walking socks for 4 days - will try and wash out a few 
Toiletries 
Straighteners (!! Ha ha well one can hope for frizz free hair)
Back up snacks for rest of week
Kindle and IPad and charging leads 

So the bags are packed we have had a few wines and some dinner, early night needed ready for the walk tomorrow - need to be up at 7am
REALLY EXCITED!! ( and a bit nervous)

Getting Ready

The last month has been busy list writing, reading books and looking on line about what to take for 6 days on the WHW. I bought from Amazon a guide to the WHW and have borrowed a map and book from friends who have completed the walk (both were very enthusiastic about my plans).  Although I haven't read this from cover to cover it appears to have lots of information and maps, so hopefully no wrong turns!

 

All our accommodation is booked, so its good to know there is a bed waiting for us, but obviously the pressure is then on that you must reach your destination. We are walking approximately 20 miles a day with overnight stops at a mixture of inns, bed and breakfasts and hotels.  I am flying from East Anglia to Glasgow arriving a day before the walking commences so with only a cabin bag booked in,  I need to plan what i can fit in my case.

need to sit on this!

So here I am the night before frantically cramming clothes in (scottish weather means packing more to cover all eventualities), BUT I have got it all in and I don't have to travel in my walking boots - result!

Preparation

Strike While the Iron is Hot
So when are we gonna go? With the seeds there it only seemed right to make plans to do the  West Highland Way (WHW) and at Christmas we decided to do the walk during August when I traditionally make my summer trip north to Scotland to stay with my sister.  This gave us a good 6 months to prepare. 
We decided that walking 100 miles was hard enough without camping and carrying baggage so planned to book in at B & B's en route and consider using a luggage transfer service - at 40 something (!) with a back that has been put through the mill with careers in catering and healthcare I didn't want to risk it giving up on me halfway through.
Practical preparations have included buying my first pair of walking boots (Lomer - solid leather construction, traditional style) and trying to walk in them as much as possible.  A weekend in the Peak District (combined with visiting my son in Sheffield) so that I could get some hill walking practice and more recently my first 20+ mile walk, which gave us an idea of what to expect (and how our bodies would feel the next day).  We survived, all be it with aching calves the next day, so this gave us some confidence that we would be alright.  the only slight concern being that the original planned 17 mile walk ended up being 21 miles! My sister informs me that the WHW is well marked and impossible to get lost on (hmmmm! lets hope so)

Prologue

August 2012

My sister and I have just walked up Conic Hill, a steep hill  overlooking  Loch Lomond, and are now having lunch outside at the Oak Tree Inn in Balmaha. The weather is sunny and I am pleased that this time I managed to reach the summit, unlike my previous attempt a couple of years ago, blaming the close, humid day for my lack of breath and bailing out with only 15 minutes to go. Arriving at the table next to us are a group of walkers (well they looked as though they had all the kit and kaboodle - unlike me in my borrowed trainers and jeans) and I remarked to my sister that they looked like they were on a long trek, to which she replied that they were probably 'doing the West Highland Way'.  

  'Whats that then?' was my reply and from there I learned of the long distance path from the outskirts of Glasgow to Fort William.  

So high on sunshine and pleased with myself for climbing a mountain, I said, 'we should do that,' and from that lunch, the seeds to 'do the West Highland Way' were sown.